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Maxima
 
1993-1994 Maxima Radio w/CD & Cass
- Not playing some CD’s (in stereo)
- CD's Skipping (in stereo)
- Tape decks that won't eject (in stereo)
- Radio cuts off (Email with specifics)
Tape decks that play at the wrong speed (in stereo)
- Speakers or channels that cut out over bumps or are totally out. (E-mail
us with specifics)
- Temperature related problems, after warms up or cools down. (E-mail us
with specifics)
"am/fm and cd buttons have broken off my Bose
unit....can they be replaced?" Yes
97 Nissan Maxima SE Removal
Instructions:
Top air vents pop out, around shifter pops up, screw left side
of ashtray, then the tray pops out, unplug lighter and mall white plug to light
for ashtray, two bolts top and bottom, pull assembly out and remove radio from
brackets.
ALTIMA
MAXIMA FRONTIER PATHFINDER 300ZX QUEST XTERRA
300ZX AUX input Bose
AUX
6 DISC IN-DASH CD CHANGERS
2001-2007
The below problems are in the changer that we have
repaired for others.
Maxima 91-92 Speakers
1989-1993 Nissan 300ZX Bose
Speakers
Bose amp repairs
- Not playing some CD’s (in stereo)
- CD's Skipping (in stereo)
- CD reads "Err" on display (in stereo)
- Tape decks that won't eject (in stereo)
- Sound cuts totally off and on (in stereo)
- Radio cuts off (Email with specifics)
Tape decks that play at the wrong speed
(in stereo)
- Speakers or channels that cut out over bumps or are
totally out. (E-mail us with specifics)
- Temperature related problems, after warms up or cools
down. (E-mail us with specifics)
- Emails
and info on the Bose speakers
2000-2003 Maxima (removing the stereo)
Pull out the ashtray insert and remove the screw behind it. The
portion of the dash that comes from below the ashtray and goes around the
shifter will come up and off from around the shifter, carefully use a regular
screwdriver and pry it up. Unplug the connectors to it and move it from around
the shifter. The air vents above the stereo will pop out by working around
the edge with a regular screwdriver, carefully working it until it pops loose.
Once the top portion and the bottom portion have been moved, you can see the 2
bolts on the top and bottom, remove them and the stereo and TEMP controls all come
forward together. Now you can access the side screws to unbolt the stereo. These
screws are tight so you want to be able to leave the TEMP controls hooked in the
car, put the stereo on a table to work at removing these tight screws. If
the side screws that hold the bracket to the stereo are too tight, you can leave
the brackets on and take the TEMP controls out of the brackets to leave those
controls in the vehicle.
2001 Pathfinder (removing the stereo)
The section above the stereo that holds the vents does pop out.
Move around the top gently with straight edge screwdriver. Move slowly and do
not use excessive force, work around gently and you can get it to come out. Do
not try to go between the top section and the bottom section as it is not
necessary and may scratch. Once the top portion comes out, you will see the 2
screws that hold the top corners of the bottom piece, at the top, that were
behind the vents. Remove those 2 screws and the rest of the dash piece that
surrounds the stereo will snap off. Then you can see the 4 bolts that hold the
stereo brackets in.
2000-2004 Xterra (removing the stereo)
These are removed by pulling out the ashtray which exposes the
2 screws that need to be removed. Then the plastic that goes around the stereo
will unsnap. The screws then can be seen that hold the stereo in and the stereo
just unplugs.
2005-Up Xterra (removing the stereo)
These are removed by pulling out the box up top of the stereo
on the bash, right in the middle (snaps out. Then the portion that goes around
the stereo will unsnap off which exposes the screws.
1997-1998 Pathfinder (removing the stereo)
There are 2 screws along bottom edge of panel that goes around
stereo. Once the 2 screws have been removed, the panel will pull off and unsnap
along top. Then unplug lighter to move it left enough to pull stereo out.
93 - 94
1995 - 96
1997
Removal Instructions:
See above left photo: Top vents and the plastic piece that is
below the vents that holds the clock and switches all come out in one piece (not
including the AC controls but right above AC controls). What we do here is use a
regular screwdriver and gently pry out right where the bend is between the vents
and the lower part. You can use 2 screwdrivers, one for each side or work both
sides out with 1. Once it is forced out a little bit, it will unsnap and be
loose. For now, that is all there is to do on the top to see the 2 bolts that
hold the top of the radio bracket, on top behind the AC control panel (2 10mm
bolts). The same 2 bolts are on the bottom behind the lighter and ashtray. Start
by removing the piece that goes around the shifter. It pry's straight up to
unsnap and then has feet holding the top edge on each side of the ashtray. With
that up, unplug the lighter by squeeze and pull off connector in back, Next,
move the ashtray by removing the one phillips screw on it's left side ear tab,
then we use the screwdriver on the right side of the ashtray and force it out so
the snap that is in the back on right side unsnaps, once loose unplug the little
connector and move aside. Now you can see the bottom bolts and once they are
removed, the stereo and AC controls all come out together. It is best to unplug
everything so you can have the whole unit on the table in order to remove the
stereo from this bracket.
1988-1994 Maxima (removing the stereo)
Start by turning key on and pulling into gear.
(not running with emergency brake on) Then the plastic piece that goes around
the shifter will pop up and off, pry on the side closest to you. Then pull out
the ashtray and notice there are 4 screws that hold that piece that goes around
the stereo, 2 above stereo under edge and 2 along bottom near ashtray, the left
one is hidden but directly left of the one you can see. With the 4 screws
removed then that piece will unsnap from around the stereo, snaps along the top.
Pull away enough to see the connector to the hazards switch and you can unplug
it. Also there is a black rubber hose below the switch that you can pull off.
Now, the dash piece will move more but it is tricky to get the bottom part out
from the bottom, you have to kind of help the lighter socket wiring get past the
solid dash piece that stops it. Usually now there is enough room to unscrew the
4 screws that hold the stereo in, and unplug it to maneuver it out of there.
remember to plug the hazard switch back up so your blinkers will work while
stereo is out. Also, the brackets on the side of these stereos are very tight,
it's OK to just leave them on the unit when sent in.
Removing rear speakers:
We only need the amp circuit boards to rebuild them. You can pull the boards
out of the black plastic box from the trunk side. There is 3 deep holes in the
box and they have Phillips screws in them. Remove these 3 screws and pull that
lid off. Then there are 2 screws that hold the circuit board in and as long as
there is a plug for the 6 wires that go into the board, then just unplug it and
it can be sent for rear speaker rebuild. If there is no plug, then the whole
assembly will have to be taken out from the top. See direction for taking out
the back seat below.
89-90 Maxima rear speakers
On some of these, if there isn't a plug to unplug the circuit board from the
rear speaker, then the rear seat has to be moved in order to pull speakers out.
The plug makes the job simple, if no plug then it's not so easy and you may want
to consider having a mechanic remove them.
In order to access the rear speakers, you must first remove the backrest of
the rear seat. There are 2 10mm bolts on driver side and passenger side, in the
crack of the seat, that hold each bottom corner of the backrest down. Once
removed, you can pull out and push up on the backrest to slide off hooks along
top rear of backrest. Once that's out of your way, there are 2 plastic screws
and screw holders that hold the brake light in place, remove the brake light and
it unplugs. Also remove the metal bracket that held the light. Along the rear
window on the inside, the plastic long pieces will snap up and off with a
regular screwdriver. The whole panel now that holds the speaker grills will snap
up, look from the trunk, you can see the large plastic snaps (green) that stick
out by the speaker, you can help them unsnap from the bottom by squeezing them
with needle nose. Move the whole piece to get to the 2 speakers, each has 3 gold
nuts to loosen to remove from below.
Removing front speakers:
In order to access the front speakers, you must loosen the door panels so you
can pull the bottom of the panel out and reach under it to unscrew the 4
Phillips Hex Bolts that hold in the Black plastic speaker housing .
Start by using a flat head screwdriver and remove the following screw covers.
- 2 Quarter size plugs along the front end of the panel -
towards the front of the car from the door
handle. Those 2 screws will come out.
- Where the inside latch is, there is a black plastic piece
on the rear side of the latch. It has a
cut out area for you to pry to pop that
piece out - use a light to see it clearly.
Behind it is 2 screws that need to come
out.
- Also, on the top of the leather handle that you pull the
door shut with, there is a nickel size
plug that comes out so you can access the
screw in the top of the handle. That
screw needs to come out.
The driver side has an extra screw that is visible only after the long
plastic piece with power windows on it has been popped up and out. It has
latches on front, middle, and back ends of it. The screw under it will need
to come out.
Now, slide a screwdriver between the door panel and the doorframe, and pry to
release the plasic snaps. Do this all of the way around the door. Now the door
panel can be pulled out far enough for you to get to the speaker housing 4
screws and it unplugs from where the wiring goes into the housing - squeeze to
release the connector. That housing can be sent as is in for repair.
Removing Speakers:
Front Door Speakers: The door panel has to be taken loose
and pulled out from the bottom in order to lay under door and unscrew speaker's
black housing. Remove the 3 screws that hold the plastic piece around the seat
belt, remove the 2 screws on the plastic piece around the seat belt along the
bottom edge of the door. Remove the screw in the bottom of the handle on the
armrest (under the cloth piece). Remove the screw in the leather handle that you
pull the door shut with. Remove the screws in and around the door handle. The
door will unsnap along the bottom edge by laying down and looking for where the
snap is and use a regular screwdriver to pry it loose. If you pull on the panel,
many times it will break the snaps off of the panel so use screwdriver. 4 screws
hold in the speaker housing, 3 are easy to get to and the 4rth is at the very
top and can only get to it with a short Phillips with the door panel swung out
to 45 degree angle. Once unscrewed, they unplug.
ONLY SHIP BLACK PLASTIC HOUSINGS THAT HAVE THE SPEAKER IN IT
WITH CARDBOARD TAPED A CROSSED THE SPEAKER CONE TO PROTECT IT.
Rear Speakers:
The entire rear area lining has to come out in order to get the
2 rear speaker housings out. Start with pulling up and out the roller shade.
It's brackets will have to come out 1 screw each side. Then beginning at the
middle in the back, where the latch is, undo the 2 thumb screws and fold towards
the front, the carpet so you can see the bolts that hold the lining plastic
pieces in. Snap out the little doors on each side where you can access tail
lights (bolt behind little door). Work your way towards the speaker removing
bolts and screws to be able to take out the screws that hold the speaker housing
in.
ONLY SHIP BLACK PLASTIC HOUSINGS THAT HAVE THE SPEAKER IN IT
WITH CARDBOARD TAPED A CROSSED THE SPEAKER CONE TO PROTECT IT.
1988-1994 Bose speaker systems
Not only do we fix these kinds of problem, I think it
is a mistake to do anything else but fix the Bose system. The ones we've done
sound great and the customers are very pleased with the results. You will be
impressed with what you've done when they're back in.
I know exactly the whining you hear and the pop. Basically,
they are to the point that they will be self destructing if continue to turn
them on. But, don't be fooled by that statement, they are repairable and will be
fine. Many times we have repaired the scratchy volume control, most places will
spray cleaner in it and it will seem repaired for a while but we are going to
fix it right, so it stays fixed.
The only thing you need to do is get the speakers and radio
out of the car to send in. There are tips on the Nissan Page of our website for
you or your mechanic. We don't take rear speakers out. We just remove amp
circuit board from box on side of speaker from inside the trunk; we just need
the boards, The fronts ship as an assembly.
True about the 1-Ohm speakers. I personally think it is a
mistake to put another amp and speakers in it.
The young man that left here a few weeks ago after we had rebuilt his Bose amps
had a smile on his face and he said "you weren't kidding when you said
people are amazed at how good it will sound", he was glad.
It will be loud and clear with plenty of bass once rebuilt. We offer a great way
to fix one or all 4, you will need all 4 rebuilt since 1989 model year. If you
can have them taken out or take them out yourself and send them in we can do all
of them for what the dealer will charge to do just one.
Tape cardboard across the speaker cone if not protected when shipping them.
Sending just amp PCB's is OK too if they unplug, some of the 89's are hardwired
to the speaker (or really just hardwired to the harness) some of them have a
connector to the PCB amp board which makes it quicker. That info is in regard to
the rears. Be sure to look over the Nissan Page on the website for removing
tips.
Other than the amps going bad, the other thing we fix quite well and often is
static in the volume control when turning it. If that is a problem, it will be
amplified by the great working amps once they've been rebuilt. So, the stereo
would have to be looked at and we could check out CD too for possible fix.
>Based on your description, the 4 speaker amps would
need to be rebuilt. We do it all the time when the Bose speakers are 10 years
old and they will sound great when done. Most people are amazed once rebuilt.
I'm going to assume it is the Bose system and all info here
is based on that assumption.
The 4 speaker/amps in this car need rebuilt for it to sound awesome like the
Bose did (when it was new) You should only have to turn the volume 1/4 for it to
be loud. You can certainly rebuild just the passenger door speaker but they all
need it and the rebuilt one will be the loudest after rebuilt. That fixes the
whining and cutting out. It doesn't eliminate the possibility of the radio
needing work but that is the main problem. This system is not well adaptable to
others. You can't just put another stereo in, if you do, you'll need to rewire
directly to new speakers. We rebuild them all the time and customers are amazed
(when all 4 done).
| Dec. 02 I just wanted to thank you for
the great service. The quality and speed of your work is impressive.
Thanks very much! Ron Albany NY '89 Nissan
Maxima Bose' Speaker Amp Rebuild |
| "I'm sending this note to commend your company for
the excellent job you did restoring my Bose sound system! I
contacted at least 5 other car stereo companies and no one was as
knowledgeable or could explain to me in an understandable way what I
needed to do, including the Infiniti Dealer! I honestly believe
the system sounds better than when it was new! Please use me as
a reference, if you wish, and thanks for the excellent job!"
"Walter
Ainsworth","1992","Infinity","Q45" |
| Comments: I wanted to let you know that I
got the Bose speakers back in the Z, and they sounded great!! Just got
back from a 2400 mile road trip and the Bose speakers rocked. You were
right about never sounding so good, thanks for your help. Dave
Kokomo, Indiana 1990 Nissan 300ZX |
Additional Bose info
in general
Feedback from Nissan Customers
| Just wanted to say GREAT job. I received my
stereo back last week and installed it and it sounds better than it ever
has. I really appreciate the quickness in getting the stereo fixed. Thanks
again. Eddie - Lexington, KY. 1993 Nissan Maxima SE |
| I wanted to thank you for fixing my CD
player. I got it re-installed today and everything seems to be in working
order. I really appreciate your quick service. I am glad that you called
me when you got my email asking questions. I enjoy that type of
high-quality service. Thanks again Rachel 1997 Nissan Maxima SE Bose |
| I received the 1998 Bose Stereo/CD/cassette
yesterday and installed it this morning. To my surprise, the installation
was very easy -- the only problem I had was removing two machine screws
from the side of a bracket on my old radio which caused some considerable
frustration. The radio looks good and sounds great. I've got my receipt
with the shipment and will hold on to it should I encounter any problems.
I will keep you in mind as I find I need repaired/improved stereo
components and will pass your name along to anyone needing radio parts or
repairs. Thanks Charles - 1994 Nissan Maxima SE Bose |
| Just wanted to let you know that the CD
player we shipped to you for repair arrived back in Virginia Beach today
and works beautifully. I was so excited. You did a great job!!
Unfortunately someone hit my car in the parking lot and I can't drive it
but that too will be repaired. We are so quick to complain in today's
world and I thought this was a good time to say --good job and thank you.
Cathy Virginia Beach, VA 1994 Nissan Maxima |
|
Thank you for the prompt email reply and
the great information. My stereo is on the way to you via UPS. I will give
you the tracking number if you need it. Please let me know when it arrives
and what you find out about what is wrong with it. If you need any
information at all just email me and I will get back to you very quickly.
By the way I had emailed over a dozen other online repair shops and choose
you because you sounded the most honest of them all. Thanks, Mark
Thank you for the great service, the unit
works just like new. I really appreciate your excellent work and very
reasonable rate. You are top notch and if there is anyone that I know in
need of your service I will definitely recommend your service to him or
her. Thanks, Mark |
|
I just wanted to thank you for the great
service. The quality and speed of your work is impressive. Thanks very
much! Ron Albany NY '89 Nissan Maxima Bose'
Speaker Amp Rebuild |
300ZX Feedback
| I received
the best of service Also very honest people to deal with. They fixed my
Bose tape deck. This was standard equipment when new and I did not want to
change to aftermarket equipment. GREAT JOB GUYS!! Paul - Murrieta
California 1993 Nissan 300ZX 2+2 |
| I got my speakers back and re-installed them
today. They sound great. Thanks for repairing them for me. I glad someone
out there can still repair them. I'll tell my club. (Z Car Club of
Northern Va.) Thanks again Mike Stafford VA
1991 Nissan 300ZX |
| Thanks for a timely and expert repair on my
Bose amps. My Z never sounded better! Joe Phoenix AZ 1992
300ZX TT |
| I have had the speaker installed in the car for a week now
and everything seems to be OK. As a matter of fact, with the
later model head unit and CD player I installed, this system is, in my
opinion, concert hall quality. It's great! Thanks for your
great work and your integrity in honoring the warranty repair of the one
speaker. Phil 91 300zx Puyallup, WA '90 300ZX 2+2 coupe |
| The new "after-market" Alpine
radio and converter you set up to replace that #@%&! Bose radio in my
300ZX was the answer! It works better than the original ever did at a
fraction of the cost and updates my car with a new CD player. Thanks for
setting this up and getting it to me so quickly! Bill
Roswell, GA 1990 Nissan 300ZX |
| I wanted to let you know that I got the Bose
speakers back in the Z, and they sounded great!! Just got back from a 2400
mile road trip and the Bose speakers rocked. You were right about never
sounding so good, thanks for your help. Dave Kokomo, Indiana
1990 Nissan 300ZX |
Additional feedback from various customers
| WOW!!!
Thanks for being so quick. You are a very respectable business and that is hard
to find these days - especially over the internet. Please know that if we
ever need service for our other car's stereo, you will be the first we look to.
Sincerely, Maria Illinois 1994 BMW 740i 6 Disc Changer |
| Everybody's had that "too good to be true" notion about offers,
deals and "come-ons," especially on the internet.
Well...Willman's is most assuredly NOT too good to be true; they are true
and they are good. I was impressed from start to finish when I entrusted
my 10-year-old factory-installed automobile CD Changer to their care to
diagnose and remedy, following 3 years of non-use because I couldn't find
anyone to repair it within reasonable cost, and with such ease and
dispatch. I found the answer in Willman's. I e-mailed and spoke personally
to Daryl Willman on several occasions, who made himself available for
consultation and step-by-step progress. The fixed-price estimate is rarely
seen these days, and pre-approval for over-runs provides customer control
at every stage. I will not hesitate to recommend Willman's to anyone
requiring expert analysis and service. Thank you!! Chris Pensacola, FL 1992
BMW 325i |
|
First off I'd like to thank you and the great people at Willman's Electronics
for the superb customer service and help dealing with my problem. I was
greatly impressed that you spent the time to check out my unit and not charge
me labor, for which I would have expected to pay. Having pulled the unit and
now replacing it back in the car, I can say that it shouldn't take more that
half an hour to pull or replace the radio.
You were right that there was nothing wrong with the unit, the
problem was a 15 amp fuse in slot 22 of the fuse box next to the steering
column. I know I checked all the fuses once before, but somehow missed that one.
Again your great service is appreciated. Regards, Will - Wisconsin 95 Nissan Maxima
|
|
Thank you for the prompt email
reply and the great information. My stereo is on the way to you via UPS. I will
give you the tracking number if you need it. Please let me know when it arrives
and what you find out about what is wrong with it. If you need any information
at all just email me and I will get back to you very quickly. By the way I had
emailed over a dozen other online repair shops and choose you because you
sounded the most honest of them all. Thanks, Mark
Thank you for the great service, the unit works
just like new. I really appreciate your excellent work and very reasonable rate.
You are top notch and if there is anyone that I know in need of your service I
will definitely recommend your service to him or her. Thanks, Mark |
|
I just wanted to thank you for
the great service. The quality and speed of your work is impressive.
Thanks very much! Ron Albany NY '89 Nissan
Maxima Bose' Speaker Amp Rebuild
|
| 1991 Infiniti Q45 4Dr
Received my rebuilt Bose speakers. Wow! What a difference. Can't
say enough about your service. It's great to finally have great sound in my auto
again. Didn't know how bad my speakers were until I installed the rebuilt ones.
Thanks Again!! Butch Franklin, TN |
| I
had been driving around town without a radio for months because I changed
the battery in my Acura 2.5TL and did not know the security code. Thanks
to your tips, I was able to find the code and save 85 bucks!!!!! Thanks
again. James |
| Thank you for the prompt email reply and the
great information. My stereo is on the way to you via UPS. I will give you
the tracking number if you need it. Please let me
know when it arrives and what you find out about what is wrong with it. If
you need any information at all just email me and I will get back to you
very quickly. By the way I had emailed over a dozen other online repair
shops and choose you because you sounded the most honest of them all.
Thanks, Mark |
|
